I think it is important to remind folks of things to avoid when on safari.  Some of the items I will list have to do with personal safety, some with respect for wildlife and some are to help us preserve the natural environment of the park:

Personal Safety

• Do not get out of the vehicle:  While in the vehicle, I am told animals see you as an inanimate object in their environment and an object to which they are familiar.  Generally, they will let you approach quite close while in the vehicle.  You will see folks getting out of the vehicle to have a morning coffee.  Hopefully this is in one of the designated areas and/or with a guide that has permission from the rangers to stop at that location.  Even in this case, you are not 100% safe out of the vehicle!  I have been with groups in the bush that have spotted lions (with cubs in tow) within 100 meters of the picnic area at Serondela in Chobe.

I have friends that theorize that man is not a natural food source to the game, so you should be generally safe out of the vehicle.  Nice theory, however, within past articles of ChobeSafari, we have noted lions biting a man in his tent and wild dogs surrounding a person separated from their group.  I recall we have also noted baboons hassling folks at various public locations. This is not a zoo and these animals are not programmed.  Any one of them can be a danger to you at any time.  Be alert.

There are exceptions one can take but still take care!  For example, one may really, really need a bio-break.  I know I have.  In this case, I suggest driving to a large sandy beach area with lots of open surroundings, and then relieving yourself while standing in the doorway of the vehicle (so you will still appear to be part of the vehicle).

Another exception is car problems. If you have a punctured tire or are stuck in the sand or water, consider the potential of another vehicle coming along to aid.  Two reasons: 1) occupants of the second vehicle can act as second sets of eyes to spot problem game and 2) the second vehicle may be critical to pulling you out of the stuck mess.  Do not consider walking out of the bush to get help as a viable option.

Times like this may require you to leave the vehicle, but this is best done if another vehicle is nearby to help and act as a scout

By the way, I have personally had to change a punctured tire while a large population of Cape Buffalo were headed my way.  I was lucky enough to have a friend in a second vehicle arrive to speed my repair and to keep an eye on the narrowing gap as the herd approached.

• Watch your distance around elephants: I think elephants present one of the greater risks to vehicles in the park.  They are larger than you, they have a much better turning radius.  Generally, the elies are quite laid back at Chobe; however, they have been known to go ‘agro’ (get affrevated) if they feel pushed, feel their young could be harmed, are single animals, are bull elephants or particularly if they are a bull in musth.  As you can see, there are a lot of conditions that could provoke an elephant charge, so the best things is to keep your distance.  Previously, we published an article specific to dealing with elephants.  The link is here and we suggest you read this as a refresher prior to your safari.

• Take proper medication precautions: For most safari locations, one should have proper hepatitis and tetanus immunizations.  For some, anti-malaria medications are recommended.  Many of my friends do not like to take anti-malaria med due to side effects.  I prefer to be safe and take them.  I have written about these meds previously at this link.

• Stay on the roadway: This is primarily an issue within national parks. You will see guide drive into the bush to give tourist the best view of lions under bushes.  They are trying to improve their tips … and they are breaking the rules.  Do not follow their lead.  The environment is dry and fragile.  If everyone took these liberties, the bush would be a real mess.  There are other reasons to stay on the main roadway.  As noted earlier, the best way to get help if broken down is to wait for another passing vehicle.  The likelihood of another vehicle gets more remote as one gets further off the regular trails.

• Take care in using flashlights (also known as ‘torches’): The wild game is not limited to the park system.  Wildlife will often come very close to the lodges where you will be staying.  This wildlife can be anything from a badger to an elephant.  It is wise to use your flashlight to check the path ahead. This light will generally warn game to clear out for you.  It is rude and disrespectful to intentionally shine or wave bright lights at the eyes of game specifically to get their attention.

On my last trip to Botswana, we stayed one night at Elephant Sands, which is a small lodge and campground just  north of Nata.  Elephant Sands has a nice waterhole and viewing area.  I set up at this location and began photographing the night elephants as they came down to the water.  Drunken visitors with bright flashlights started shining the lights at the elephants, which startled them, perhaps put us in danger, and eventually led to the elephants running off into the bush.  Bottom line, move slowly, use the light wisely and it enhances your wildlife viewing.

• Leave no trace behind: This is obvious, and we have all heard this before. This means not to alter, modify disturb or destroy any habitat, food source or surroundings. Leave your location in the same state than you found it.  Enough said on this topic.

• Respect the people: Part of the images you may want to bring home are images of the locals at work.  Great idea, but be aware that not everyone wants their photograph taken.  For example, I have found that rangers on patrol in the park do not want to be photographed.  Military personnel or equipment should not be photographed.  Often the fishermen out on the Chobe River do not appear to like having their photos taken.  These limitations are not show stoppers.  We have written about the challenge here.  Review this article and then do what you feel is best.

Wildlife Respect: Don’t stress the wildlife: No image, no matter how good, unique or special it may be, is worth stressing, endangering or otherwise harming wildlife. As wildlife photographers, we all need to be advocates for wildlife, after all, if we, who love to photograph them, are not, who will?

Imagine being out of your vehicle when this lone fellow comes along. Not a good idea.

Take responsibility for our actions and make every effort to lessen our impact on wildlife and the environment. There any number of organizations promote their own code of ethics for safe and respectful enjoyment of nature, and I will list a few of those at the end of this article.

Here is my basic set of guidelines that I follow. I’ve made these simple and to the point in an effort to make it easy to remember and stick to.

• Do no harm: The foundation of the wildlife photographers ethic. You must always ask yourself if the next action you are about to take will bring any harm to wildlife. Sometimes it’s is very clear cut, sometimes it’s a little more difficult to discern what consequences your actions make have. In any case you should always be considering the welfare of your subject first and foremost.

• Never harass wildlife: This means never to never taunt, bait or force an action out of your subject. There are many ways to harass the wildlife.  Earlier in the article we noted that flashlights may harass the wildlfie.  Another ‘trick’ I have seen explored is honking of vehicle horns to get an animal to look up for a photo.  Generally this does not work, so don’t do it.

Be patient! The most beautiful wildlife photographs result from natural behavior. Never interfere with animals engaged in breeding, feeding, nesting, or caring for young. Learn the habits of your subjects; Respect and protect your subject, look for signs of stress. If you notice your subject is altering it’s behavior as a result of your actions, stop. Learn to recognize wildlife alarm signals for the safety of both wildlife and yourself.

PRINCIPLES OF ETHICAL FIELD PRACTICES

NANPA believes that following these practices promotes the well-being of the location, subject and photographer. Every place, plant, and animal, whether above or below water, is unique, and cumulative impacts occur over time. Therefore, one must always exercise good individual judgment. It is NANPA’s belief that these principles will encourage all who participate in the enjoyment of nature to do so in a way that best promotes good stewardship of the resource.

Environmental: knowledge of subject and place

• • Learn patterns of animal behavior–know when not to interfere with animals’ life cycles.
  • Respect the routine needs of animals–remember that others will attempt to photograph them, too.
  • Use appropriate lenses to photograph wild animals–if an animal shows stress, move back and use a longer lens.
  • Acquaint yourself with the fragility of the ecosystem–stay on trails that are intended to lessen impact.

Social: knowledge of rules and laws

• • When appropriate, inform managers or other authorities of your presence and purpose–help minimize cumulative impacts and maintain safety.
  • Learn the rules and laws of the location–if minimum distances exist for approaching wildlife, follow them.
  • In the absence of management authority, use good judgement–treat the wildlife, plants and places as if you were their guest.
  • Prepare yourself and your equipment for unexpected events–avoid exposing yourself and others to preventable mishaps.

Individual: expertise and responsibilities

• • Treat others courteously–ask before joining others already shooting in an area.
  • Tactfully inform others if you observe them engaging in inappropriate or harmful behavior–many people unknowingly endanger themselves and animals.
  • Report inappropriate behavior to proper authorities–don’t argue with those who don’t care; report them.
  • Be a good role model, both as a photographer and a citizen–educate others by your actions; enhance their understanding.

Adopted February 3, 1996 by the NANPA board of directors.

by John Huxley

Seriously, our guide Thuso Sarefo says with a wide, Batswana smile, there is an ever-present danger of being trampled by a rampaging hippo. Or surprised to death by a clumsy elephant. Or snatched, like a fast-food takeaway, by a lion.

When we arrive at Kwara camp, on the north-eastern edge of the delta, it is late summer and hot-water bottles are out of season. But, just as it was that night in the English couple’s tent, there is water everywhere, across the broad, flat land.

During our stay in the region, many airstrips west of Chobe NP are flooded. Regular safari tracks have become impassable even in snorkled-up trucks. Some luxury cabins with “picturesque river views” have suddenly acquired 360-degree water frontage. Further north, in Zambia, the lower steps of Livingstone lodges are lapped by the swollen Zambesi. So much river is tumbling over Victoria Falls, local guides grumble that vantage points for “the smoke that thunders” are too dangerous.

Not far away, whole holiday resorts in Namibia have been inundated, abandoned, replaced here and there on the miles-wide Chobe River by several high-rise houseboats. For the visitor, at least, it is all very exciting.

Like many visitors to Botswana, we had arrived via Johannesburg, where we had a restful night behind the razor wire at a suburban hotel; then Livingstone, where we spent only a couple of days after paying $US50 ($57) for a visa; and then the strange border town of Kazungula. There is a settlement of sorts, built close to the cross on the map that marks where Zambia, Zimbabwe, South Africa and Botswana join. But the real action is either side of the Zambezi River.

Elephants at Chobe

Here as many as 250 heavy trucks can be found waiting – often for more than a week, we are told – to make the ferry crossing. Around the slow-moving queue of men and machines has grown a flourishing trade in food, drugs, sex and car washes. It is a fascinating study in patience and poverty. But there’s no time to linger as rich whites are fast-tracked through customs, whisked across the river in a speedboat and taken in open Land Rover, like visiting royalty, into Botswana.

The reputation of the land-locked country precedes us – a blessed fraction of Africa whose friendly efficiency is vouchsafed by author Alexander McCall Smith and his “No.1 ladies’ detective”, Precious Ramotswe.  But after the stress of South Africa and the casual scruffiness of Zambia, the smooth, tarmac roads, manicured verges and colourful signs politely requesting visitors to “Please drive safely and keep Botswana clean” come as a pleasant surprise. As McCall Smith, whose Precious Ramotswe spin-offs now include an opera and a cookbook, admits, it is not flawless. “There’s ‘grim’ in every country,” he has said. But Botswana has less than its fair share of “grim”, more than its fair share of great.

It is difficult to dislike a people whose most-heated political debate in recent years has been over choice of a “national bird”: the mournful kori bustard, known by its call as “the go-away bird”, or that tarty little show-off, the lilac-breasted roller? Both can be easily spotted among the teeming wildlife, elephant-big and butterfly-small, in the Chobe National Park, near the town of Kasane, our starting point for a 10-day trip into the delta. Statistically, we:

• Stay at four camps: Kubu Lodge, Kwando, Kwara and, lest anyone think we’d got stuck on the same page of the directory, Xakanaxa.

• Make three short, scary hops in small planes and one lengthy, lazy boat trip, between the camps and our exit point, Maun.

• Embark on 14 dawn or dusk safaris, four river safaris, two night safaris and three kayak trips.

• Observe up close four of the big five (lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo but no rhino); all of the ugly five (wildebeest, warthog, hyena, vulture and marabou stork); and one of the small five (leopard tortoise but no buffalo weaver, elephant shrew, lion ant or rhino beetle).

• Tick 182 birds, a bigger attraction for us than the three fives, but no hot-water bottles.

• Record zero mosquito bites, illnesses or accidents but come close to being hit by falling fruit from the famous Botswana sausage tree. Pity. “Killed by falling sausage” would have looked so cool on a death certificate.

• Take one decent walk, accompanied by a guide named the General, who has a serious gun and a qualification in alternative bush medicines. He points out plenty of remedies for keeping away evil spirits but none for curing arthritic hips.

• Have one helluva good time.

That said, being on safari is at times an odd experience, frequently evoking feelings of indolence, claustrophobia and displacement, possibly derived from watching too many Out of Africa-style movies and reading too many White Mischief-type books.

Roadway view between Kasane and Chobe NP

The constraints inevitable in organising luxury holidays in remote, potentially dangerous surroundings are, as one of the German guests put it, like living “in einer seifenblase”. That is, “in a bubble”, where we feel expertly, generously, kindly pampered like old-colonial English, overfed and under-exercised. In a word, guilty.

By day three, my gym-junkie wife and I are organising “Botswana biathlons” that involve swimming two three-stroke laps of a small splash pool, picking up a carved, wooden hippo, running around the pool, replacing the hippo and repeating, 25 times.

Picture the opening scene to one composite camp stay: A small Cessna 206 with defective dials (“They never work on this model,” the South African pilot cheerfully explains) comes slip-sliding to a halt on a muddy, bush airstrip.

At a rickety wooden table labelled “guest lounge”, the passengers are greeted by the smiling guides, who introduce themselves as “Pete and GT – as in gin and tonic”. Their first question is: “What would you like to drink?” Water, perhaps? “No, not for now, for tonight,” Pete says, explaining the evening ritual of sundowners. Orders placed, guests and luggage are loaded into an open-top four-wheel-drive and are taken off to the camp, where smiling staff are lined up, offering welcome drinks.

Slowly, seductively, guests are drawn into the daily routine, which typically starts with a wake-up call at 6 o’clock and breakfast. The morning safari, which includes a stop for tea and biccies, lasts about four hours. Then it’s back to camp for brunch, a big cooked breakfast. The hot middle of the day is free. Afternoon tea, nicknamed tiffin, is at 4pm, followed by an afternoon safari for two or three hours, depending on animal activity. As the blazing red sun sets on one of the flattest countries in the world, the vehicles stop, the guides climb down and set up a metal table, spread a crisp tablecloth and start serving the sundowners. A couple of hours later, the guests have freshened up and are seated at the communal table hoeing into a four-course meal, with “help yourself from the fridge” drinks.

The catering is wonderful and completed on one memorable evening when all the staff members emerge from kitchens and camp patrols to stage an impromptu concert of songs and dances.

The hospitality, on safari and in camp, is overwhelming. Kwara’s energetic manager, Janet Sejammu, explains: “We always tell our guides they must remember the next game drive may be their 500th but for the visitor it could be the first. Or last.” And the company is never hard going, which is just as well given the hours we spend together being shaken on deeply rutted bush tracks. (Xakanaxa guide Ollie says they are kept like that for guests wanting the “real Africa experience”.) New friends include an American musician who switched from symphony orchestras to heavy-metal bands and an English couple who have driven to Botswana from Manchester. “The worst bit was the M6,” they explain.  And several people who have tacked a safari on to the beginning or end of a tax-deductible overseas “conference”.

Sounds perfect? Well, with minor reservations, a safari holiday in Botswana almost is. But I’d make some suggestions before booking a holiday that could cost thousands:

• Choose to spread time among a number of different camps. However wonderful the wildlife, driving over the same tracks, morning and afternoon, for more than a couple of days becomes surprisingly tedious.

• Inquire whether the camp runs safaris into a national park, where vehicles have to stick to the tracks, or on private property, where they can go wherever they like in search of marquee animals. Clearly, it is more rewarding to be up close to the animals – but we feel that charging through waist-high grass in pursuit of a lone leopard amounts to harassment.

• Ask how many people will travel with you. In terms of comfort, common purpose and the guide’s attention, the fewer the better. And in terms of guides, four eyes – the driver’s and the tracker’s – are more effective and safer than two.

• Check the guides and their qualifications, especially for specialist interests: birds, specific animals, specialist photography etc. After a frustrating trip with a guide who clearly didn’t know his birds, an American woman gave her tip instead to another guest, who’d spotted and correctly identified 90 per cent of the birds seen.

• Accept that, despite its best intentions, Moremi Air, which carries guests between camps and to and from the airport, is running a taxi service rather than scheduled flights, so pick-up times can change at short notice.

One mid-morning, we receive an urgent call from base to rush back to Kwando for our flight to Kwara. Sadly, it comes at a climactic moment as three cheetahs, hidden behind a mopane tree, survey a straggly line of unsuspecting tsessebe. The other couple in the truck are, understandably, even less happy than we are. Did the dozy antelopes escape? Or did the cheetahs, three brothers, make a dash, followed by a leisurely feed? If anyone out there knows, please let me know.

FAST FACTS

Getting there

Qantas flies non-stop to Johannesburg from Sydney (14hr) for about $1650. V Australia flies non-stop from Melbourne (15hr 15 min) for about $1470. Fares are low-season return. Air Botswana will take you on to Maun (1hr 40min) for about $615 return including tax.

Package holidays include transfers into the delta and between camps, by boat or plane, mostly on Moremi Air.

Touring there

The author booked with safaridestinations.net, one of several companies based in Maun. All arrangements and payments were made online, or by bank transfer. Ten days in the delta cost about $260 a person a night, including all domestic flights and boat rides from Kasane to Maun, our point of exit.

Wildlife Safari has a seven-day “Wings Over Botswana” safari in luxury accommodation, with scenic flights to Chobe National Park, Moremi Wildlife Reserve and the Okavango Delta and game-viewing options by open safari vehicle, foot and mokoro (canoe). It costs from $6500 a person, twin share, including all meals, accommodation and domestic flights. Phone 1800 998 558, see www.wildlifesafari.com.au.

For general information see www.botswanatourism.co.bw. For camps mentioned here, see kubulodge.net, www.kwando.co.za (for both Kwando and Kwara), and xakanaxa-camp.com.

Advice from South African Airlines

The following is the latest travel advice from South African Airlines for the World Cup travel period:

With all the excitement in South Africa, South African airports will be abuzz with quite a bit more activity than usual. Most of it will be rowdy soccer/football fans.  If you were lucky enough to snag a ticket, you will probably also be one of the loud and excited travelers.  Some of you will be headed out to photograph wildlife.  Traveling with large camera equipment as carry-on is always tough.  During the World Cup, we expect security and regulations to be closely enforced by both the airlines and the security organizations … as it should be. We encourage you to follow these tips to make your experience much easier.

• Check-in
  SAA has made your travel experience much more enjoyable by offering the convenience of on-line check-in at www.flysaa.com. On-line check-in is available 24 hours before your departure time, whether or not you are traveling with checked baggage. For frequently asked questions regarding online check in please visit www.flysaa.com and click on the Online Check-in icon. To view a demo of on-line check-in just click here.

Self-service check-in kiosks are located at our stations in Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban, and Port Elizabeth for domestic flights within South Africa. If you are holding an E-Ticket, you can use the kiosks and receive your boarding pass in as little as 20 seconds, avoiding lines. Please make sure that you have positive identification at the boarding gates. Check-in time is two hours prior to departure for domestic flights and three hours prior to departure for international flights.

• Factor in extra time
  Factor in extra traveling time to the airport, as the roads leading to airports will be congested by buses transporting fans. Customers are advised to check in well in advance, as the airport drop-off zones, airport terminals and parking areas will also be congested.
• Flight closure times
  Domestic flights close 30 minutes prior to departure and international flights to/from the US close 50 minutes prior to departure. Please do not be late!
• Hand luggage requirements
  The allocation for carry-on luggage in Economy Class is one piece weighing no more than 8 kilograms (approximately 17 pounds) and two pieces for passengers in Premium Business Class at no more than 8 kilograms per bag. The total dimensions of each bag must not exceed 115cm (approximately 45 inches).

SAA 747

I’ve heard of eating Mopane worms, but … well never really took the stories seriously.  One of my friends manages the Kubu Lodge in Kasane.  She provided me with several traditional meals that the cooks at Kubu regularly serve guests.  These will be shared in my upcoming article.  Her not also included a ‘recipe for the more adventurous’.   Yep, a genuine Mopane Worm recipe and I am going to share it with you at the end of the article.  Before we get to preparing the meal, let me give you a little more background on the Mopane worm.

Mopane Worms - photo copyright Marius Coetzee

Mopane worms (Imbrasia belina) are a staple part of the diet in Southern Africa and are harvested twice a year and sold in the local markets.

The Basics:

In Africa’s developing countries, the eating of insects is still wide spread. Caterpillars and termites are the most eaten and marketed insects in Africa. Among these are Mopane worms; caterpillars that hatch in early spring from eggs of Gonimbrasia belina moths. They are mostly seen on Colophospermum mopane trees where they mature within six weeks.

The mopane worm is the brightly coloured caterpillar of the Emperor Moth, which is one of the world’s largest moths. The caterpillar lives primarily on the leaves of the mopane tree (Colophospermum mopane) – hence its name. These ‘worms’ can be all over a tree as seen in the imagebelow.  Thank goodness Mopane worms are an excellent source of protein and are even considered a delicacy in Botswana.  It forms the basis of a multi-million rand trade in edible insects, providing a livelihood for many harvesters, traders and their families. However, the industry is not without problems. Droughts devastate the harvest on a regular basis and there are areas where overexploitation has led to local extinctions.

Mopane Worms at the base of a tree

The worms are hand-picked or shaken off the trees. It takes just a few days of drying in the hot sun and they are ready to be cooked and eaten with pap (cooked mealie meal). As the women collect them they are slowly disappearing from the trees.

A Mopane Worm Myth:

There is a myth that if young Mopane worm are harvested the older individuals will leave the area. According to another myth, when larvae leave the trees and burrow into the ground they are going to die.

In fact, the purpose of digging into the ground is to pupate, and this is essential to complete the life cycle. If the larval stage is thought to end in death, and is not seen as part of a life cycle, there is no reason to conserve the worm at this stage.

While most people surveyed had no suggestions of how the mopane worms could be reintroduced into areas where they had been over-harvested, the rest suggested scattering ashes. There is a myth that the ashes from the fires used to prepare worms for the market could be scattered in areas where the worms are extinct in an appropriate ritual. According to this legend, this will bring the Mopane worms back.

Back to facts – Mopane worms are high in healthy nutrients. Their protein content is three times that of beef and it takes only 3kg of leaves to produce 1kg of worms whereas 1kg of beef requires 10kg of feed to produce. Analysis has shown that the worms contain 60.70% crude protein, 16.70% crude fat, and 10.72% minerals, on a dry matter basis.

Preparation as a food

As you can see from these photos, the Mopane Worms are quite big and juicy when initially harvested

Mopane worms are traditionally cooked in a stew containing tomatoes and onions. Mopani worms are being studied to try and find out more about the extent to which this resource can be harvested on a sustainable basis. In Zimbabwe, an organization known at “Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized Species” has a funded program to prepare and can mopane worms …. in a can and ready to serve!

I’ll bet you were surprised at how serious this subject is!  MOving this article forward, here is the Kubu Lodge’s recommended cooking method for Mopane worms:

Young kids near a large pile of drying Mopane Worms

For the adventurous: Mophane Worms  – (known as “Phane”)

For 4 – 6 servings you need:

1 kg dried phane

1 tablespoon cooking oil

1 medium onion finely chopped

½ green pepper finely chopped

Salt to taste

1-2 cloves garlic finely chopped

1. In a kitchen fry the onions in oil over low heat till soft and translucent, turn up the heat and add green pepper.
2. Stir fry for a minute and add rinsed phane and garlic.
3. Stir fry a further five minutes and then add ½ cup water and seasoning.
4. Cook another 15/20 minutes till tender adding a little more water if necessary, do not let the dish become to watery.

A Properly prepated meal of Mopane Worms ready for consumption.

The golden hours of sunset are a great time to shoot your photography.  Unfortunately, there are times when you are getting those memory shots, but you know you need to get back closer to civilization before the sun goes down.  This could be anywhere from a desert location, out on open water, or (for this blog especially) out in the African bush.  So, how do you know when the sun will be down?

Scenes like this make me want to stay out shooting as long as the light will allow me. How much time do I have before sunset? - © P. B. Eleazer

Today’s photo tip was taught to me by the British Adventurer, Bear Grylls.  Mr. Grylls is a trained survivalist and hosts a U.S. television show “Man vs. Wild”.  In one of his episodes, he noted the importance of making camp prior to sunset and displayed a neat trick to predict sunset.  The method is quite simple and I have proven it’s effectiveness in my trips into Chobe National Park.

Step 1 – Face the sun and hold your hand out at arm’s length.

Step 2 – hold your fingers parallel to the distant horizon with your lowest finger aligned with the horizon. (see photo 2)

Photo 2 - hand position for calculating time until sunset - © P. B. Eleazer

Step 3 – count the number of fingers between the horizon and the sun.  As you can see in my photo number 3,  I have about 45 minutes before the sun is fully set.

Photo 3 - Example of a 45 minute estimate until sunset - © P. B. Eleazer

That’s basically all there is to it.  Short lesson, simple lesson, and one that really works.  I have used this method for up to two hours of planning (stacking one hand upon the other).  Unfortunately, that used all of the fingers I personally posses, so I cannot vouch for this method for greater time planning … but we’re photographers and the golden hours are the only ones we care about anyway …. right?

Now you have my tip … so in the words of one of my favorite performers, Sir Elton John, “Don’t let the sun go down on you!”

Minutes after the sun has set - © P. B. Eleazer

Kasane Airport serves Chobe National Park

26 APRIL 2010

GABORONE – Botswana has received a P55 million loan from the Arab Bank for Economic Development in Africa (BADEA) to finance the development of Kasane airport.

The airport development is estimated to cost P180 million and financing will come from BADEA, government of Botswana and the OPEC Fund for International Development (OFID).

This is not the first time Botswana has received loans and grants from BADEA since the two have been partners in development matters since 1975.

The total amount of loans and grants offered to Botswana to date is US$127 470 000 stated Assistant Minister of Finance and Development Planning, Mr Charles Tibone.

Speaking at the signing ceremony last week, Mr Tibone said the bank assisted Botswana in areas of infrastructure development, technical expertise, small and medium scale enterprises as well as capacity building in foot and mouth disease control.

Mr Tibone explained that Botswana is in the process of transforming its economy from one that is heavily dependent on minerals by increasing the growth of other sectors such as transport, tourism and financial services.

Therefore, he said the upgrading and expansion of Kasane airport to handle greater volumes of traffic will add impetus to growth in other sectors of the economy noting Botswanas central location in the Southern Africa region offered an advantage in terms of providing air links to neighbouring countries.

He said Kasane airport facility, which was opened to traffic in 1991 provided access to the major tourist attraction in the area being the Chobe National Park.

The passenger and aircraft movement at the airport consists of international, domestic, scheduled, chartered, private and transit traffic, Mr Tibone said.

Kasane airport has experienced a significant growth in terms of traffic over the years, said Mr Tibone adding that passenger traffic grew from 9 398 in 1991 to 63 267 passengers in 2008 whereas aircraft movements increased from 1 540 aircraft movements in 1991 to 13 549 in 2008.

He pointed out that the funds would go into rehabilitating and developing the airport whose components contain upgrading the runway and buildings as well as provision of equipment and consultancy services.

Air Botswana is the only 'connecting airline' currently serving Kasane/Chobe NP

The upgrading works he said entailed extending the runway from the current 2 000 to 3000 metres as well as widening of the runway width to 45 metres, refurbishing of terminal buildings to cater for the expected increase in traffic, providing additional parking for small aircraft as well as serviced space where private tenants can erect their own hangars and construction of new offices for the airport staff members.

Furthermore, he said the expansion of the airport would facilitate the landing as well as take off of aircraft of Boeing 737 or equivalent class.

The multi-million project involves extending the runway from two to three kilometers and widening the width to 45 metres, refurbishing the terminal building to cater for increased traffic, additional parking for small aircraft and serviced space for private tenants to erect their own hangars and build new offices for the airport staff. When complete, Kasane Airport will be able to handle Boeing 737 and equivalent aircraft, boosting traffic to the tourism- rich northwest region.

Passenger volumes and aircraft movements, both domestic and international, have risen over the years, necessitating the upgrade and expansion of the airport. Passenger traffic grew from 9,398 in 1991 to 63,267 in 2008, while aircraft movements increased by 12,000 to 13,549 over the same period. “This is an extremely important project especially as we are looking at diversification away from mining into growth areas such as tourism. This facility provides access to the major tourist attraction in the area, namely, the Chobe National Park,” said Tibone.

Director General of BADEA, Mr Abdelaziz Khelef said the gesture was an indicator of the brotherly relations that bind the government of Botswana and BADEA on one hand and with the Arab countries and their people on the other.

He said by making such a contribution, local and regional aviation networks would be strengthened as well as the provision of better and more efficient transport links.

It is envisaged that that the benefits of the project will not only include the local economy but will spill over to benefit the neighbouring countries such as Zimbabwe, Namibia and Zambia as well as the whole region, stated Mr Khelef.

The conditions of the loan include a five year grace period and a 20 year repayment period.

Some of the local projects financed by BADEA include Serowe-Orapa road, Nata-Maun road, Maun water project, North-South water carrier project and technical assistance to roads department, rural electrification, agriculture as well as water sanitation among others.BOPA

1. Do you want your trip to be dedicated to photography or a vacation mixed with photography?

This is a particularly big decision if you are traveling with others who are not dedicated to photography.  For me, if traveling with others, I can be up at sunrise, shoot the golden hours and often be home just as others are ready for breakfast.  The afternoons are a bigger problem as the prime shooting hours are also the prime hours for other activities and/or supper.

The ‘problem’ I have when traveling with an intense photography group is different.  On safari, I love to be up before sunrise and shoot until 10 a.m. or so and head back into the bush around 3 p.m. and shoot until the light of day is gone.  Unfortunately for me, the more intense workshops and photographers want to do this, but may want a mid-day workshop and then an afternoon ‘best of’ review of everyone’s shots from the day.  I would prefer a mid-day rest and an evening of fine food, drink and light conversation.  This is especially true if my trip into the bush is going to be 7 to 10 days – that’s a lot of intense shooting.

2. Do you mind heading out of the country out of season?

In the southern Africa bush, tourist season is the most expensive for traveling and the lodges are more full of tourist.  June through September is winter and the water is scarce, making for great game density near rivers and water holes.  Further, one doesn’t have to worry about rain and mosquitoes are virtually non-existent.

If you are willing to go in the ‘off season’, prices, including airfares are lower.  On the downside, the bush is greener and more dense.  To offset this issue, you may want to consider alternate safari locations such as the Kalahari or other more arid choices.  Depending on your location, you may only have to deal with more humidity or a few additional rainy days.  On the plus side, bird viewing in the off season is said to be spectacular.  Another big plus will be the sky.  In winter, you will typically wake to a cloudless sky and you will also see a beautiful cloudless sunset. In the off season, you will likely see impressive cloud formations at the ends of the day that may lead to some very memorable photographs. Also, fewer tourist means you have more of the location to yourself.

Skies like this make an out of prime season trip memorable - photo copyright: P. B. Eleazer

3. Do you want to travel alone or in a group?

Sometimes group fares can be more reasonable than for an individual. While traveling in a group may provide better rates and additional safety, the disadvantages include sightseeing according to the entire group, and less alone time.  If you are primarily going for photography, I would avoid any group travel where the entire group goal is not photography.  In particular related to safari trips, group travel often means three people to a bench on game drives.  This will really restrict shooting angles as well as what lens options you can take.  Image even two to a row and you want to swap back and forth between a 500mm lens and a small lens – the logistics just don’t work.

4. Do you want to photograph wildlife, landscapes or people?

On the surface, you may think this question silly.  Of course you want to photograph wildlife if you are going to Botswana, but with some locations, that will be all you shoot.  At other locations, you will have a better chance to also shoot interesting landscapes and perhaps portraits of the peoples of Botswana.  These latter shots are also ‘once in a lifetime’ chances for the occasional traveler, so please consider them as you choose your safari plan.

5. Do you want a posh experience or a clean bed?

This is another topic where my choice varies from the classic ‘tour group’ offering.  I want a clean bed.  I plan to use my room for a mid-day snooze and to collapse in at night, dead tired and having imbibed a few drinks. If you gave me a luxury room, I would not be taking advantage of it.  I do want a quality meal.  But quality to me means tasty with reasonable portions.  It does not mean I must have linen and high grade silver tea service.  What does it mean to you?  If you break down the daily cost of many safari packages, a lot of the cost is related to the level of lodging and meal service.  The cost of guide and vehicle often pale in comparison, so make sure you shop this subject. Quality and prices cover a wide range.

6. Do you want to drive or be driven?

I’ve been fortunate to have great friends in southern Africa.  With their experience on the trip with me, I am quite comfortable renting/hiring a Toyota HiLux (US equivalent is the Tacoma) pick-up and driving myself.  I like setting my own schedule and controlling how long I shoot each site.

For others, the game drive preference is to be driven. This can have advantages.  First, you don’t have to worry about getting stuck or lost.  Perhaps more important, the drivers are often/usually guides with lots of experience spotting game.  Additionally, guides typically have radios and can quickly learn of sitings other guides have found.

The down sides are minimized if you are driving with a group exclusively doing photography. Here is a list of downsides to watch out for:

a) how many people to a vehicle?  Pretty important if you want a camera bag open next to you and if you want a good shooting angle.

b) control of timing – the more people, the less voice you will have on how long to sit at a specific location before others are ready to ‘move on’.  Further, guides usually have scheduled to depart the lodge at a specific time and to return at a specific time.  This may limit your ability to be in the bush early or to shoot the last light of sunset.

c) you may not be alone – since the guides/drivers utilize radio, this means several trucks will often converge on a particular spotting.  There is not much worse for your photography than 3 or 4 vehicles surrounding brush with a lion underneath.

While I note these as drawbacks to the driver/guide option, please be aware that if you book with groups going specifically with photography you can probably minimize the issues.  Make sure you check references of others who have traveled on prior photo safaris.

A good driver and guide may increase your chances of catching a shot like this. Photo copyright P. B. Eleazer

7. Do you want to cover an entire country or make your hub one particular lodge?

For my trips to Chobe, I typically stay at one lodge, but explore other parts of the park at different times of the week.  By doing this, I gain a good sense of what animals can be located at different times and where I need to be to catch the appropriate light.

Would I like to see more of the country? yes – and I will, but I only want to see a small portion each trip.  I have looked at many itineraries for Botswana travel that have one spending a day in Linyanti, a day in Moremi, a day in Chobe, a day at Vic Falls, etc.  This may be for you if you plan one and only one trip to Botswana, but by doing this, you will probably not get a sense of the people or the true rhythm of the region.

Tourism for Tomorrow

Congratulations to the Botswana Tourism Board and to Wilderness Safaris as both are finalist in the 2010 Tourism for Tomorrow Awards presented by the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC). The Tourism for Tomorrow Awards, now in their sixth year under WTTC’s stewardship are aimed at recognising best practice in sustainable tourism within the Travel & Tourism industry worldwide. Given the growing concern about natural and cultural resources, these Awards are particularly important to WTTC and provide the Council with the opportunity of promoting and partnering with the industry leaders in responsible tourism, highlighting the prime examples of best practice.

The Tourism for Tomorrow Awards focus on four key categories. These categories were carefully selected to show how destinations can guide their tourism development according to sustainable tourism principles, to recognize best practices that are helping to protect rare and endangered species and safeguard nature; and how tourism, carefully planned and managed, can make a positive contribution to poverty alleviation, local economic development, and cultural heritage preservation while providing an excellent overall guest experience. One category – Global Tourism Business Award – is focused exclusively on sustainable tourism at the larger corporate level to further demonstrate that best practices can encompass small, medium, and also large businesses.

The WTTC announced the 12 finalists for the 2010 Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. Under WTTC’s stewardship since 2003, the prestigious Awards recognize best practice in sustainable tourism in four different categories – Destination Stewardship, Conservation, Community Benefit and Global Tourism Business. Over 160 entries were received this year from over 45 countries.  Winners will be announced on May 26, 2010.

The 2010 Finalists are:

The 12 finalists were selected by an international team of independent judges in each of the four award categories for having successfully demonstrated sustainable tourism practices, including the protection of natural and cultural heritage, social and economic benefits to local people, and environmentally friendly operations.

Destination Stewardship Award

• Botswana Tourism Board – www.botswanatourism.co.bw
• Country of Montenegro, Ministry of Tourism – www.montenegro.travel
• Mount Huangshan Scenic Site, China – www.chinahuangshan.gov.cn

Conservation Award

• Emirates Hotels & Resorts, UAE – www.emirateshotelsresorts.com
• Inkaterra Perú SAC – www.inkaterra.com
• Singita Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania – www.singita.com

Community Benefit Award

• Namibia’s Communal Conservancy Tourism Sector / NACSO -www.nacso.org.na
• Tourindia, India – www.tourindiakerala.com
• Whale Watch Kaikoura Ltd, New Zealand – www.whalewatch.co.nz

Global Tourism Business Award

• Accor, France & Global – www.accor.com
• Banyan Tree Holdings, Singapore & Global – www.banyantree.com
• Wilderness Safaris, South Africa & Global – www.wilderness-safaris.com

The following is the press release info on the Botswana Tourism Board’s nomination:

Learn more at www..botswanatourism.co.bw/

The Okavango Delta Ramsar Site (ODRS) is a unique 55,374 km2 water- and game-rich area within Botswana’s desert environment. It includes the Tsodilo Hills (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Moremi Game Reserve, Wildlife Management Areas and community lands.

As a developing country, and faced with the challenge of using the ODRS sustainably and equitably, Botswana developed a model incorporating fewer tourists at lower densities and higher tariffs. A legislative framework was put into place to manage this approach and ensure that bed and vehicle densities were set at conservative levels, utilisation was geographically spread, all stakeholders benefited, alternate threats to the area were managed, and accountability of stakeholders was clear.

Tourism is now the second largest contributor to Botswana’s GDP and the ODRS is the premier tourist attraction and primary employer in northern Botswana. According to the Okavango Delta Management Plan it is: “A carefully managed, well-functioning ecosystem that equitably and sustainably provides benefits for local, national and international stakeholders.”

Judges’ Verdict
Botswana’s approach to tourism is based on a ‘low-volume – high-yield’ strategy, which was devised and supported through a series of legislations promulgated by the country’s government. The core of this strategy is the setting of conservative limits to bed and vehicle density. This is what now makes the ODRS a unique destination. It comprises 9.5% of Botswana’s total land area. Through the management of the Botswana Tourism Board, a unique partnership between state, private sector and rural communities has been established. Some 34% of the adult population in ODRS now work in tourism and wildlife, contributing to the conservation of fragile habitat and a number of IUCN red-listed threatened species (based on the assessment of the International Union for Conservation of Nature), as well as generating income and employment in the region. In 2002 Botswana established a National Ecotourism Strategy which led to the publication of an Ecotourism Best Practice Manual in 2008. Operators and tourism suppliers within the ODRS have taken Botswana’s tourism vision to heart and have created world-class facilities allowing for lower-impact and higher-tariff tourism.

”The award means a lot to us in Botswana and is an indication that the world recognises our efforts in preserving our environment and developing the sector for the benefit of communities with high regard for the environment. It also challenges and motivates us to continue to compete on best practices and product offerings globally.”
Myra Sekgororoane, Chief Executive Officer, Botswana Tourism Board

Also of note, Wilderness Safaris, an important provider of safari adventures in Botwsana was named a finalist in the Global Tourism Business category.

I first learned of Wilderness Safaris through Andy Biggs.  His highly regarded photo safaris into Savuti and the Okavango Delta are in conjunction with Wilderness Safaris. Through this interaction, I met Grant Atkinson, who is a guide for Wilderness Safaris and an accomplished photographer. The following press release information was provided relative to Wilderness Safaris:

Wilderness Safaris is first and foremost a conservation organisation. Secondly, we are a responsible ecotourism operator on more than three million hectares in seven southern African countries, since we firmly believe that this is the most effective and practical means of ensuring the viability and sustainability of African conservation in the modern era.

Screen Capture of Wilderness Safaris' web page

Our conservation aims are: ensuring sustainable protection of carbon sinks and biodiversity through the creation of viable ecotourism businesses, either within state-protected areas or on community or privately owned land; ensuring that ecotourism remains the chosen economic alternative to less sustainable industries such as mining, agriculture, hydroelectric schemes and others that irrevocably damage biodiversity, wilderness and ecosystem processes; and creating a profitable, ethical and responsible business that others imitate and implement in regions where we are not active or cannot make a difference ourselves.

Judges’ Verdict
Wilderness Safaris has been operating sound and sustainable ecotourism in southern Africa for 26 years. Its portfolio comprises some 70 safari camps complimented by walks and tour activities to explore the African wilderness. It employs nearly 3,000 people, 1,800 of whom work in its safari camps, and with an 85% share from local communities. In every region in which Wilderness Safari operates, it employs an environmental team that starts with an Environmental Impact Assessment before any tourism product is introduced. At the same time, Wilderness Safaris ensures cultural heritage preservation with a local rather than standardised approach. The company currently employs a full-time PhD researcher to assess community impacts in the regions within which it operates.

The company has an ongoing record of setting high benchmarks and re-assessing its work – internally, through environmental officers and, externally, through well-established relationships with universities and academics. Its solid financial model builds the basis for the company’s long-term viability allowing it to incorporate non-profit branches such as the Wilderness Wildlife Trust and Children in the Wilderness programme.

“Wilderness Safaris is thrilled at its inclusion as one of 12 finalists in the 2010 Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. We believe we are a company that has built a sustainable business model that does not compromise environmental principles and which provides jobs, training, skills, careers, adjusted horizons, hope and a realistic alternative to less sustainable development options. The idea of building sustainable conservation economies in Africa is our prime ideal – and being chosen as a finalist in such prestigious awards as the Tourism for Tomorrow Awards is both hugely rewarding and also hugely humbling.”
Andy Payne, Managing Director, Wilderness Safaris

"Vanishing Elephant" - © Art Wolfe

While it wasn’t hard to see this elephant, it brought back a lot of memories from my last safari.  On that trip, my son, Justin Eleazer, wanted to explore more inland and much further west than we had ever traveled before within Chobe NP.  [Mistake 1 ] Reluctantly, I agreed.  Though Justin had never driven from the right side with a stick shift, he wanted to drive on this day. [Mistake 2 ] Reluctantly I agreed.   Some of these roadways were quite narrow, with brush hitting both sides of the Toyota Hi-Lux.  Well, getting to my point – several times on this trip, we ended up driving very close to elephants before either Justin and I spotted them.  Once we ended up in the middle of an entire herd crossing the road.  Justin ‘mastered’ tight turns and riding the clutch as needed that day.

The Tip: Elephants are big.  Real big.  When you first see them along a waterfront or in open grasslands, you will think that they will always be easy to spot.  WRONG.  These things walk quietly and hide very well, so keep your eyes open. ….. Oh, and by the way, if we missed the elephants, just think how much other game we didn’t spot …. so keep your eyes open.  With this reminder, you may want to go back and our article on minimizing the chances with elephants.

I was pleasantly surprised on my first trip at how approachable and friendly the people of Kasane are.  During my trip, I was able to photograph soccer (football) games, children, workers gathering the straw for housing and many people carrying goods from the grocery.  I did a passable job, but not a great job.  On my next trip I hope to do better.

This game turned out to be quite an education for me.

With this article, we can prepare you to also do a good job, but it should be noted that there is a bit of controversy in shooting people and street scenes.  Hopefully we will be able to lay out some of the do’s and don’t of this interesting and important photographic element of your trip.

This young man gives a thumbs up to our article on capturing the soul of Botswana

Photography Etiquette

We will guide this article toward experiences in Botswana, but most of what is discussed applies anywhere around the world. Taking snapshots of every local in a colorful costume may be the best way for a hurried tourist to take pictures, but it leaves a bad impression. In many countries taking pictures of people without asking them first is offensive, and travelers should be respectful of local customs.

Short story number 1: A few years ago on my first trip to Botswana, my son and I saw a group of locals playing soccer.  It was mid-day, which was a bad time to shoot in the bush, so we thought we would take in the game and also capture some of the action.  We shot for about a half hour when suddenly we were approached by a police officer.  It turned out that the game we were shooting adjacent to the local prison and locals rules is that the this premises should not be photographed.  All turned out okay, as the local warden agreed to review the images on the camera’s LCD screen and let us keep all of the images that excluded the prison buildings. Recommendation # 1 – learn the local laws regarding public photography.

Short story number 2: While driving from Nata to Kasane in July, we saw ladies working along the sides of the road harvesting the wild straw. This was quite a scene and really an important aspect of the culture, so we stopped to shoot a few photographs. I meant no disrespect but quickly I realized that the indigenous people did not want to be photographed, at least not without some form of remuneration. We were clearly not the first to take the photos of the setting and the locals have learned to take advantage of our obsession with taking pictures. I gladly donated the equivalent of $5 and was free to move among the works and take any and all of the shots I needed.

Later at dinner with my South African travel companions, I heard that some of them had taken similar shots but refused to give any money to the workers.  They cited that they were not in favor of setting this precedent which over time could lead the country to be beggars for tourism.  While I understand my friends point, I also feel the workers were acting as models and model talent deserves to be paid.  Recommendation #2 – Decide whether you are willing to pay local models for their time and effort before you are in the situation where you must make that call.

Straw harvesting along the side of the road. A few pula were needed to 'relax the workers'. Money well spent.

Although I do not mind asking to take a picture or paying a small fee, I generally prefer taking candid shots. Most people assume an unnatural pose when they know they are being photographed, so the photographs usually do not turn out very good.  Simply, respecting your subject doesn’t necessarily require asking their permission. Respecting one’s subject may mean taking the best possible picture you can in the least intrusive way possible. Figure out what works for you and your particular situation then get it done. Quickly.  I have tried several different approaches to taking candid shots, but taking pictures of people without them knowing about it is not easy, so this leads to another great question:  Permission, yes or no?  Recommenation #3 – Decide up front whether you are going to ask permission to take their picture before you pull out the camera.

Once more, there is no right or wrong.  While in Kasane, I rarely ask permission.  The locals are used to visitors and understand the importance of visitors to their economy.  In other parts of Botswana, away from the frequent tourist trade, locals seem much more uncomfortable with strangers taking their pictures.  I try to ‘read’ the discomfort and adjust to the setting.  My first position is to talk to the potential subject.  I let them know that I am a visitor and would like to share more about their country with my friends at home.  Using my camera’s LCD screen, I share with them the shots I have recently taken and offer to let them see the shots I take which include them.  I find that showing the images that I take which includes the subject really helps.  I learned this trick on an episode of Art Wolfe’s travels to the Edge. As an added step, I also ask if they have internet access and share the link to my photos, letting them know I plan to post their images on my return home.  The internet is becoming more available within Botswana and I have found that many would love to be able to download or get a copy of the photographs.  Recommendation #4 – if you are going to get your subject involved in your shooting, the more you share, the more you are likely to get.

Many photographers do an incredible job of capturing people in the street, and they’ve asked permission. Asking permission is respectful; it opens-up a dialogue, and ultimately engages you on a societal level more than refraining. But it’s not everyone’s style.   I have had mixed results and continue to be concerned with losing the naturalness of the situation. I must say that I like my photos better when I the shots are candid, but I am more limited by composition, position relative to background and time with the subject..

It should also be noted that if you’re going to ask, expect to be rejected. More often than not, you’ll be treated with curiosity. Who are you what are you doing why do you want to take my picture?  Of course by asking, you have also opened that door again related to compensation for the giving of permission. When I ask, it’s usually because that the situation is so extraordinary that I can’t let the opportunity to photograph them walk away.  Recommendation #5 – don’t let a once in a lifetime scene get away because you were too shy to ask about shooting the scene and subjects. Since you don’t frequent these locations often, they really are once in a lifetime opportunities.

What’s the message: Let Your Photographs Tell a Story

Lady coming from market - A clear story of the basic chores and how they are executed with a unique carrying style.

In a prior article on wildlife photography, we noted the importance of your images conveying your message. Great photographs tell a story about the place and the people they show without the need for captions or lengthy explanations. Great photographs have intent behind them – an underlying script or story. They are never just snapshots of random people or scenes. In order to take great pictures of people a photographer needs to be able to understand the scene. You need to watch the background.  You need to consider the lighting.

If you’re going to spend time considering someone as a subject, you should spend an equal amount of time considering how you can show your subject some respect. If you’re going to take a picture of someone, you better not waste anyone’s time, and you better do a damn good job. So, if you’re walking around wondering what to shoot, take your lens cap off. Pre-focus your camera. Decide what kind of depth-of-field you want. Consider the light. Get everything set-up so that you’ll be able to react quickly, efficiently, and perfectly, should the right situation present itself (regardless of whether or not you ask permission).  Recommendation #6 – it’s photography, so back to the basics, consider lighting, consider background, consider DOF … you know, the basics just like landscape and wildlife.

I am no portrait expert, but used my basic landscape skills to capture this young boy with good light and strong composition.

As a general rule, People ‘doing things’ make the best candid photos: sports players, trades people, farmers and marketplace workers are all excellent examples of subjects with things to do. In Kasane, there are a number of local stores and street venders in the center of town. Recommendation #7 – Find locations where locals frequent and/or work and shoot workers at their work.

A final comment:

You may think that this type of photogography is intimidating and too intrusive. Get over it. Stop thinking about how to approach taking pictures of people and just start doing it. There are many ways to begin, but first, free yourself from your own (psychological/ethical/moral) constraints. You’re not considering taking a picture to sell to the National Inquirer. It’s no big deal. You are visiting a new culture you may never get a chance to document again. It’s rare to get a second chance with candid photography. When you see an opportunity, grab it!

While researching for this article, I met (via email), Emily Chastain.  She visited Botswana and while there, met  children as well as some workers at an orphanage near Gaberone.  One way to really get candid shots is to immerse into the culture through involvement in a business or charity. Obviously, this is a real win-win way to get shots. Emily is a photographer and you can learn more about her work here.   She has been generous enough to allow me to share some of her images of the wonderful people of Botswana.  Please enjoy these wonderful images, all  ©Emily Chastain.

B&W of Child in Gabarone orphanage © Emily Chastain

Per Emily, this picture was taken in a section of Gaborone called Old Naledi, the poorest township in the area. The HIV/AIDS rate in Botswana is about 24%, a significant decrease from recent years. The poverty I witnessed was eye-opening, although the government is making many efforts to improve conditions. Despite the poor living conditions, the people seemed genuinely happy and extremely friendly. It was a pleasure to visit them, but it made me realize how incredibly spoiled I am to be living in a privileged first world country. ©Emily Chastain

Emily noted that despite the poor living conditions, the people seemed genuinely happy and extremely friendly. It was a pleasure to visit them, but it made me realize how incredibly spoiled I am to be living in a privileged first world country. Image ©Emily Chastain

Emily's final photos from Africa! This lady was one of the workers at the day care for the orphan children. ©Emily Chastain